Summer Skin Chemistry

Nutritionally dense and hydrating, they not only nourish us, but can also play a role in skincare. 

In this article, we peel back a layer of fruit - fruit acids, naturally derived from fruits, vegetables, and plants - along with other facial acids, to provide some fresh summer skincare guidelines.

Acids, when mentioned in relation to skin, can evoke harsh chemical undertones, but rest assured - when used correctly, acids can transform your skin. Common fruit acids found in beauty products include Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs).

AHAs gently exfoliate the skin’s surface, promoting cell turnover to brighten, hydrate, and renew the skin. Suitable for most skin types, it's important to choose the right product, especially for sensitive skin. Look for these AHAs in your skincare products:

• Glycolic Acid, a potent AHA derived from sugar cane, dissolves dead skin cells, unclogs pores, reduces blackheads, treats breakouts, and provides anti-ageing benefits. It’s ideal for combination and oily skin; however, those with sensitive skin should avoid it.
• Mild Malic Acid from apples, wine, and our bodies, along with Lactic Acid from milk and fermented products, are gentle yet effective AHA options for all skin types. These acids also act as product pH adjusters, exfoliating, improving texture, brightening, boosting collagen, providing anti-ageing benefits, and calming the skin.
• Citric Acid, derived from citrus fruits and other sources, adjusts pH in products, preventing excessive alkalinity. It protects the skin from pollution and enhances the effectiveness of skincare products like toners, serums, and moisturisers.

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• Tartaric Acid, found in grapes, wine vine leaves, and dandelions, gently sheds dead skin cells while soothing inflamed skin. It is ideal for oily, acne-prone, and mature skin.
• Salicylic Acid, a BHA, is a versatile exfoliant that tackles acne, soothes, brightens, and hydrates. It suits various skin types, including acne-prone, combination, oily, normal, and mature skin. I’ve used it since my teens to manage hormonal acne and heat-related breakouts.

Concentration guidelines vary based on skin type:

Sensitive: 0.5-1%

Normal/Combination: 1-2%

Acne-Prone, Blackheads/Whiteheads: 2-3%

Hyperpigmentation: 3%

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AHAs and BHAs can also interact effectively when used together:

PHAs are gentle and safe for sensitive skin. They absorb slowly due to their large molecule size, providing long-lasting hydration without irritation, making them suitable for daily use.

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Beyond fruit acids, many other acids are used in skincare formulations. Here are some examples to look out for:

• Hyaluronic Acid (HA), the skin's natural hydrator, gets depleted by lifestyle, hormones, and age, leading to dryness and reduced firmness. Regular application boosts collagen, reduces wrinkles, and tightens the skin. Skincare products often combine AHAs with HA for exfoliation, hydration, and soothing benefits.

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• Fatty Acids, such as oleic acid, synergise with fruit acids by locking in moisture, combating acne bacteria, and aiding facial acid absorption. They soothe, hydrate, strengthen the skin barrier, and improve tolerance to exfoliation.
• Amino Acids, combined with fruit acids, help maintain smooth, hydrated skin and reduce signs of ageing. In skincare, Arginine is known to repair skin damage, Lysine strengthens the surface, Proline, Glycine, and Leucine reduce wrinkles, while Aspartic Acid offers antioxidant benefits.
• Mandelic Acid, derived from almonds, exfoliates and promotes skin cell turnover, smoothing the complexion, preventing skin ageing, and replacing old cells with healthier, younger ones.
• Pyruvic Acid, a keto acid from apples, grapes, and berries, is a potent exfoliant used in chemical peels to unclog pores and combat ageing. For safety and efficacy, it’s best applied by a professional or under their guidance.
• Ferulic Acid enhances the effect of AHAs. It stabilises antioxidant Vitamins C and E while countering free radicals caused by pollution, UV exposure, and unhealthy diets. It also fights hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and premature ageing.
• Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid are both biologically active compounds that effectively manage hyperpigmentation. Azelaic acid is ideal for sensitive skin. However, combining these acids with AHAs is not recommended. 

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When using facial acids, extra care is necessary. Choose a product that suits your skin type, and keep these tips in mind when incorporating them into your routine:

• Patch Test: Apply a small amount to the skin and monitor for 24 hours.
• Concentration: Start with a low concentration (5-7%) and increase gradually to avoid irritation. For sensitive skin, use lower concentrations or seek professional advice. High concentrations of glycolic acid (10%) and salicylic acid (>2%) are best for evening use.
• Sun Protection: If your product lacks SPF, apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.
• Seek Professional Skincare Advice: When in doubt, consult a professional.

Unlock a healthy glow this summer by finding the perfect chemistry for your skin through facial acids. Use them carefully to prevent over-exfoliation and increased sun sensitivity. Stay hydrated and always apply sunscreen for UV protection.